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With a heritage dating back to the pre-Hispanic times of the pulquerías, this fascinating beverage has played a fundamental role in our rich culture. Its deep-rooted presence in the heart of the Centro Histórico has been meticulously explored in this article, which focuses on the period spanning from the 18th to the 20th century. Find out more about this deep-rooted tradition and its prominent place in our history in the following lines.
Throughout a historical journey that spans from the 18th to the 20th centuries, we will immerse ourselves in the evolution of this beverage, which in the old Mexico City shared the same daily life as coffee or beer do today.
The first Expendios or Pulquerías
It is worth mentioning that during the 18th century, there was a street known as “Pulquería de Celaya” (currently República de Perú, between Argentina and Brasil). According to José María Marroquí in his book “La Ciudad de México”, in this place there was a small square where an individual named Señor Celaya established a pulquería under a rustic shelter. Over time, the population began to associate the name of the street with the pulqueria.
In “Memories of my times” by Guillermo Prieto, it is described that, during the 19th century, these pulque shelters were characterized by gabled roofs. The improvised tables and chairs were made of planks, while the floor was covered with sawdust on compacted earth. The vats, each housing cured variants, were sheltered by wooden boards painted in a variety of colors.
These outlets, known as “expendios” or “casillas,” were ubiquitous in the city. To sell pulque, vendors were simply required to apply for a license that was renewed annually at no cost. However, they had to pay monthly taxes, in addition to regulating their establishments according to a classification based on street location. This classification was not based on the quality of the pulque, but on proximity to the Plaza Mayor, a reflection of the social, economic and political dynamics of the capital.
Pulquerías by category
Thus, the first category pulquerias were located in places such as Portal de Mercaderes (next to the Zócalo), Seminario, Escalerillas (Guatemala), Plateros (the first two blocks of Madero) or San Francisco (Madero). Those of second category were located in streets such as Relox (Argentina), Tacuba, Rejas de Balvanera (Uruguay) or Correo Mayor. The third category were located in Sepulcros de Santo Domingo (Brasil), Cerca de Santo Domingo (Belisario Domínguez), San Juan de Letrán, Vizcaínas, Mesones or Jesús María.
Those of the fourth category were located on streets such as Puente de Cuervo (Colombia), Del Carmen, Del Apartado or Puente de Alvarado. And finally, the fifth category were located in the outskirts of the old city, beyond San Cosme.
At certain times, it was not uncommon to find several pulquerias on the same street. Between the years 1846 and 1861, Relox Street was home to at least three establishments (all licensed): one on the corner of the old Padre Lecuona (Nicaragua) alley, another at the intersection with Santa Catalina and a third between Las Moras (Bolivia) Street, located between Brazil and Argentina.
Indeed, pulque seemed to flow through these streets. In this context, it is plausible to imagine that due to the abundance of these locales, it was common for some to open and close, or for others to emerge clandestinely.
In order to prevent this situation and regulate consumption, when an entrepreneur expressed his desire to establish a business, even if it was a food business, in addition to requesting the corresponding license, he was required to answer a questionnaire of ten simple questions. As an example, based on documents from the Historical Archive of Mexico City, in 1909, an individual named Chong Sing Lee requested authorization to open a fonda on the seventh street of Relox (currently Argentina, on the corner with Ecuador).
Leona Vicaro and Andres Quintana Roo as pulqueros
It is intriguing and even eccentric to consider the abundance of pulquerias, even two or three, in every corner of the old central zone. It is equally challenging to imagine, as early as the 19th century, that large mansions were the recipients of pulque, transported on mules or carts directly from Apan, a municipality in the state of Hidalgo, for distribution and sale in the city. This was the case of the residence currently numbered 37 on República de Brasil, owned by Leona Vicario and Andrés Quintana Roo, who operated a pulque hacienda.
There was even a distinguished family dedicated to the commercialization of pulque in the city: the Adalids. According to Dr. Lucio Ernesto Maldonado Ojeda in his work “El Tribunal de vagos de la Ciudad de México”, the Adalids sold bottled pulque on Espíritu Santo Street (at the intersection of Isabel la Católica with Madero and 16 de Septiembre). The same author points out that Andrés Quintana Roo was a pioneer in bottling pulque in the city, a little known aspect of these characters in the history of Mexico.
Latest Pulquerias
In any case, pulque was an integral component of daily life in that ancient metropolis. It permeated every street and its inhabitants. Today, however, it has largely been forgotten. As for the pulquerias, only a few survive, and it is necessary to walk several blocks to find the exact location. One of the most renowned and resilient to the passage of time is La Risa, on Mesones Street, which has been in operation since 1903.
After a closure due to the pandemic, this iconic pulqueria reopened on May 18, 2021. While pulque is less prominent on these streets today, it is still prevalent on Centro’s historic walkways.
